The Beginner's Guide to Reading a Seed Packet

The Beginner's Guide to Reading a Seed Packet

Seed packets pack a surprising amount of planning information into a few lines of small print. Misreading any one of them is a common reason first plantings fail.

Days to maturity

This counts from either direct-sowing or transplanting outdoors — not from the day you started seeds indoors. A tomato listed at "75 days" means 75 days after it goes into the ground as a transplant, not 75 days from seed.

Sowing depth and spacing

Depth matters more than most gardeners assume: seeds sown too deep may never reach the surface, while seeds sown too shallow dry out before germinating. As a rule of thumb, plant at a depth of roughly twice the seed's diameter.

"Days to germination" vs. "days to maturity"

These are frequently confused. Germination time tells you how long before you see a seedling at all; maturity tells you how long until harvest. A packet listing "7–14 days germination, 60 days maturity" means roughly 46–53 additional days of growing after the seedling emerges.

Hardiness zone map

The small map on the back is a planting-date guide, not a growing guarantee. It shows recommended outdoor planting windows by region — cross-reference it with your specific USDA zone and average frost dates rather than reading it as a strict rule.

Sun Exposure Codes

"Full sun," "partial shade," and "full shade" on a packet refer to actual measured hours of direct light, not general brightness — full sun means 6+ hours of direct sunlight daily, partial shade means 3-6 hours, and full shade means less than 3. A spot that feels bright because it's open to the sky but faces north can still fail a "full sun" plant if it never receives direct, unobstructed sunlight for the required hours.

Seed Treatment Notes: What "Treated" Actually Means

Packets marked "treated" have been coated with a fungicide to improve germination rates in cold, wet soil — useful for very early spring sowing but worth knowing before handling seeds without gloves or feeding them to any animals, since the coating is not food-safe. Untreated or organic-certified seeds skip this step and may show slightly lower germination in poor conditions, a tradeoff worth understanding rather than assuming treated seeds are simply "better."

Dana Whitfield

Role

Certified Master Gardener

Based

Portland, OR · Zone 8b

Dana completed her Master Gardener certification through the Oregon State University Extension program and has spent twelve seasons growing vegetables in raised beds and small urban plots.

Food Gardening